Celebrating change

Local restaurants made the 44th president’s inaugural speech, although not for any commendable reason:

“This is the meaning of our liberty and our creed – - why men and women and children of every race and every faith can join in celebration across this magnificent mall, and why a man whose father less than sixty years ago might not have been served at a local restaurant can now stand before you to take a most sacred oath.”    

 - Barack Obama, in his inaugural speech, January 20, 2009, referring to his election as the first African-American president of the United States

Desserts at our Inauguration Party

Desserts at our Inauguration Party

 

 Sixty years may seem like a long time to those of us who didn’t experience the racism Barack Obama recalled in his speech today, but I’m sure it feels like yesterday to those who suffered – and suffer – through it. As a recent college graduate working in Washington D.C. in 1989, I have a vivid memory of boarding a crowded bus one morning and realizing that I was the sole white person on the bus. For the first time, I understood how it felt to be the minority.   It made me think about how it must feel to be black.

Coming from California, I was never exposed to large African-American communities. In Washington D.C., I learned that America’s strength comes from her diversity. I learned that people of different races can co-exist, peacefully.  My mom tells a wonderful story about the first day my sister, Paula, went to kindergarten. She came home crying because another little girl was named “Paula” and she was afraid the teacher would not be able to tell them apart – she couldn’t believe someone else had her name.  When my mother took her to school the next morning, she saw that the other Paula was black.

 

My sister’s innocence and color-blindness is a lesson for all of us.  I hope that Barack Obama’s presidency brings about the change we are all craving. I have hope that we will come together and accomplish the hard work ahead of us.  Most importantly,  may the food at the local restaurant be delicious and served to all!

 

New Year’s Resolutions

Just received my latest copy of Bon Appetit magazine, which I habitually put aside to read alone later with a glass of wine. This month’s (February 2009) special feature is “50 Easy Ways to Eat Green.” I was pleasantly surprised to see that No. 8 was “Buy a Side of Beef.”

Reporter Hugh Garvey sums it up better than any other I’ve seen in the past 17 years in this business:

“An increasing number of foodie carnivores are ordering grass-fed beef straight from the local farmers. Here’s why: The practice directly supports local farmers with a vested interest in taking care of the environment. Unlike grain and corn feed, grass requires no fossil fuel for transport. The regrowth of grazed grass removes carbon monoxide from the air.”

Garvey gets it. Grassfed beef is not only about good – and healthy – food;  it’s about supporting your local rural community (family farms and ranches and all the businesses that go with them), economical food purchases, humane treatment of animals, and environmental stewardship. Eating the grassfed beef burger I had for dinner tonight (with a melted slice of Swiss cheese, served on a fresh Ciabatta role) will also accomplish the other benefits I mention. Why would people do anything else? To find a your local grassfed beef producer, go to www.eatwild.com and have a Happy New Year!

Visions of chocolate danced in my head

Forget sugar plums, I tasted some of the most divine chocolate yesterday that I must write about it. Like many discoveries, I stumbled upon this one almost by accident. We were in Scotts Valley, Calif. meeting Joe’s family for a Christmas tree cutting lunch. Our waitress gave us a flyer and told us about the chocolate shop around the corner. After lunch, we followed her directions and found the staircase to a small kitchen:  Chocolate Visions, a tiny, independent chocolate maker. They sell only to retail and private orders. I imagined this off-the-beat, secret location is what it must have been like to get a bottle of Scotch during Prohibition. The Open House is a once-a-year event when they open their doors directly to the public.

Here is a brief excerpt from their website: “Our commitment is to make the finest chocolates and confections that we can. We want to make chocolates that appeal to all five senses. We want to make chocolates that not only have a superb flavor but are visually appealing as well. We want to make chocolates that are emotionally satisfying. We want to make chocolates that are almost too beautiful to eat. We want to make chocolates that are ‘High tech, High touch’; that is, we may use computers to design our chocolates, but we make them all by hand.”

By blending unusual, local ingredients with world class chocolate - E. Guittard, Callebaut or Chocovic – owner Lloyd Martin has created truly unique chocolates such as “Pegasus” – a fine, Belgian bittersweet chocolate blended with Aglianico wine from Paso Robles, and a floral olive oil from Aptos. Wow. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever tasted.

Other notable pieces:

Single Malt Scotch. I wanted to buy a whole box for my Dad, who loves good Scotch, but had to settle for the single piece that came in their “Premier Collection” sampler. In his own words, Lloyd describes it as  “a smoky Single Malt Scotch blended with fine, bittersweet chocolate to produce a ganache center that really astounds.”  He’s right.

In other pieces, they use lavender- grown by Valencia Creek Farm in Aptos, Calif. – olive oil, grown in Santa Cruz, and Fluer de Sel (sea salt) from Big Sur. This is a chocolate loving, local food blogger’s dream.

Framboise: “A blend of Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Framboise and fine Belgian chocolate to make for a small piece of chocolate heaven.”

Taste is just part of it. These pieces of candy are works of art. Each one is “signed” with a gold topping (made of all natural food color) that illustrates the origin. The Rose has an image of a real rose on it. It is infused with Turkish Rose Otto oil.

chocolate-visions3

To learn more about Chocolate Visions,  and place your own order, you can visit their website at chocolatevision.com or call them at (831)457-2883. Maybe I’ll research sugar plums next Christmas, but this year my dreams are filled with Lloyd’s unique and locally-made chocolates.

“All politics are local politics”

“All politics are local politics” ~Tip O’Neill

Tip would probably agree that like politics, much of our food comes back to what is local. In the recent  presidential campaign there was not a lot of talk about agriculture. The talk of pigs had to do with lipstick, not a succulent roasting recipe.

Now that we can get back to the business of governing, it’s time to ask how the Obama Adminstration will shape policies that benfit small farms and rural communities. I heard on the radio yesterday that Obama will set up a special office that focuses on urban affairs and resources. Knowing full well the inefficiencies that come with large, city bureacracies, (I used to work in San Francsisco’s City Hall) I’m all for a White House liason that will help cities and counties better navigate the federal programs designed to help them.

I would love to see more partnerships between cities and rural areas. I love the idea of city dwellers looking to local farms and ranches for their food. “Localvores” are a perfect bridge between urban and rural America. Through Community Supported Agriculture (CSAs), school gardens, buying clubs, and chefs and retailers who seek out local food, we can all thrive. City dwellers would have fresh, healthy food while supporting a local economy and – in many cases – an environmental cause, such as healthy watersheds on grassfed cattle ranches.

 I talk with people in agriculture every day. There are concerns about Obama’s Adminstration imposing more regulations on the agricultural industry. There are conerns about taxes, both capital gains and estate. People fear private property rights may be taken away. I understand these concerns, but I also believe Obama, and whoever he appoints as Secretary of Agriculture, will set policy based on non-partisan, fact-based discussions with stakeholders. He will use the power of his online presence, his army of volunteers across America, and his wide swath of supporters that span ages, nationalities and regions to gather input. That’s how he has done it all along and I see no indication of that changing.  He will seek the local opinion before he sets a federal policy.

Let’s hope the healthy agricultural policies begin in the White House, with the chef sourcing ingredients from the many farms that surround Washington, D.C.

Bella Italia

We had a party this weekend. It was more like a two day meal. It was a 20-year reunion of friends from my Junior Year abroad, in Italy.  Together, we are an eclectic group of artists, architects, teachers, chefs, florists, gardeners, scientists and – of course – writers.

Friends from Italy enjoying a meal on the ranch

Friends from Italy enjoying a meal on the ranch

Since we graduated from the program, all of us have gone our separate ways, but stayed in touch. Coming togther on the ranch was a celebration of food, wine and good laughs. My friend and roommate in Florence, also named Julie, still lives in Italy and brought her two sons who speak only Italian. Joe barbecued hangar steaks of Morris Grassfed Beef, seasoned in a dry rub for 24 hours before they touched the grill. So delicious, with a glass of Chianti. We had heirloom tomatoes from my friend Kristen’s L.A. garden (she’s a pastry chef at the W Hotel), wrapped prociutto and melon, made by Tai, (gardener for the City of San Francisco), and a colorful summer salad from Joanne (a Berkeley architect).

The hills in San Juan Bautista are not unlike Tuscany: rolling and studded with trees. As the evening turned to night, our candles shed a mellow glow on the party. My friend Reka pulled out the Limoncella from our freezer and we started getting silly. I don’t remember what time we finally called it a night, but we awoke to warm croissants and Peet’s coffee (thanks Joe!) Bella Italia.

The Independence of Local Food

As we move through our delivery season we are fortunate to be the recipients of our customers’ many talents. In the world of food, there is a lot of sharing.  On this Fourth of July, it is a fitting tribute to celebrate not only our country’s independence from Great Britian, but the independence that comes with sourcing your food from local producers, as our forefathers did. Because we are part of a growing coalition of local food makers, we are indeed indpendent from factors industrial food is linked to: high fuel costs (transporation) and high corn prices (processing), to name two.

Morris Grassfed Beef customers are foodies, and they know good, real food when they see it. Many of them make their own, gourmet items. Although food items are probably the most traded, we’ve been known to trade beef for piano lessons, artwork and even construction projects. Foodies are inherently talented people!

This week Joe brought home all sorts of goodies from our delivieries: a pound of Kenya Wango Estate Peaberry Barefoot Coffee, www.barefootcoffee.com, 8 oz. of Bravo Farms Handmade Cheese, Original Chipolte Cheddar, www.bravofarms.com, and a small bottle of 100% organic Avocadomolina extra virgin avocado oil.

I’m sipping a cup of the Kenya Wango coffee as a I write and it is – to quote their label – “a roller coaster of savory & syrupy flavors from sweet, V8 juice, cumin, and sweet snow peas.” Wow, definately a welcomed deviation from the vanilla latte at Starbucks!

Rhonda Gruber’s Bravo Farms Handmade Cheese is the most delicous cheddar I have ever tasted. I’ve been cutting a slice to enjoy with a glass of white wine each evening while I cook. I’ve also melted it into my favorite brown butter rice recipe to make a soupy risotto that’s out of this world. The flavor is smoked, but not dry. It has a chipolte kick that makes my taste buds dance.

We received a whole case of Good Earth teas from our friend and loyal customer Billy Healy. Our talented customer, Farrell, who loves to cook, gave us her own blend of Farrell’s Spicy Rub  that makes a wonderful dry rub for beef, poultry or even just seasonings for grilled vegetables. Lucas Moen, who is doing deliveries for us now, brings us raw milk and cream in glass bottles from Claravale Farm in Watsonville, Calif.  Not only is this as fresh as it gets, but it is thick, creamy and healthy. If you’ve never tasted the real thing, you should contact Lucas: lucamoen34@yahoo.com.

The beauty of all of these products is that they are made by hand, and with attention to detail. Each product is a tribute to the passion of its creator and a celebration of the indpendence of local food.

Delivery Day

We’ve just completed our first two delivery days of the 2008 season. I say “We,” but sadly, this really does not include me. I am working full-time “off the ranch,” as they say – at an organic produce company in San Juan Bautista. My hours have prevented me from participating in the day-to-day activities of T.O. Cattle Company.

It saddens me because I was an instrumental part of building our customer base and when Joe comes home and says, ” I saw Angela Brenneman today.” I say: ”How is she ?!?! I love Angela, she’s been with us since the beginning and is such a great customer, mom, person, etc.” I can’t believe I don’t get to see our customers as I used to. It’s OK, though. I really appreciate and like the people I work with, I’m learning a lot, and I enjoy my job. I have learned to let go of some of my Virgo tendencies to control and have full confidence in Joe’s and Everett’s ability to be organized during the chaos of delivery day. Believe it or not, they are surviving without me!

Joe was amused by one customer who showed up on his motorcycle to pick up a quarter cow.  We have several drop-off lcoations from Sacrameno to Hollister. This particular customer met us in San Jose and had a 50 lb. “trunk” under the seat of his bike. He loaded up most of the meat there and put the remaining 30 or so pounds in another box on top of his trunk, reducing his carbon footprint the whole time. The best thing about Morris Grassfed Beef customers is that they literally meet us halfway. Not just in the sense that they drive 40 miles to meet us, but that they are willing to pay a bit extra to support local ranches and butchers.  Local food is not only better for the environment, our local economies, rural culture, and our bodies: it’s better for our souls.

 

Daily Candy

You know your food is produced by an authentic, too-busy-to-be-hip rancher when the ranch appears on a trendy, urban blog that he (or she) is clueless about. They also have no idea of the marketing coup they have just scored. T.O. Cattle Co. appeared this week on Daily Candy, a blog for those in the know about everything from fashion, to restaurants, to beauty tips, to -yes, even grassfed beef.

My sister-in-law, Carrie, a Haight Ashbury dwelling hipster, e-mailed us early in the morning with the link and one line: “This is huge.” When I asked Joe if he had ever heard of Daily Candy (I had not) he said, “Oh, yea. They called last week to fact check.” OK, so his only connection with them was that they were doing an article on us (not that unusal) and that they were checking their facts. As a journalist, I was happy to know that, and immediately gained respect for them as a legitimate source of information. The post was short: http://www.dailycandy.com/san_francisco/food-drink/ but a fun way to explain what we do. A friend in marketing asked me if I knew how we got on there and I told her I had no idea.  Good for Daily Candy, they’re as authentic as Morris Grassfed Beef.

Back to the food … one of my favorite things about living on the ranch is the view we have from our house. Our garden is a virtual outdoor living room surrounded by native grasses, lavendar plants, and oak studded hills – all with a sweeping view of the San Juan Valley. We had some friends over for dinner last weekend and sipped some of Joel Gott’s 815 2005 Cabernet while watching the kids laugh and slide down a hill on cardboard boxes. Hard to beat a summer night like that.

Joel says this about his wine: This will be the third release of our 815 Cabernet, named in honor of our oldest daughter Lucy, born on August 15, 2003. We believe the 815 Cabernet and Lucy share a few traits; continue to thrive each year, sweet with bold overtones and always engaging! The cooler temperatures during the 2005 harvest allowed for longer hang time on the vines, producing well structured and classic cabernet wines. The blend is unique since we make the wines from diverse vineyard sites, including high elevation rocky soil vineyards that produce concentrated wines as well as Napa Valley floor vineyards that produce wines with elegance and finesse. The color is purple, ruby red, with aromas of blueberry, cassis and mocha. The entry on the palette is rich and fruit forward, with jammy flavors, good structure, acidity, and sweet balanced tannins that leave an elegant finish.

August 15 (1996) also happens to be our son, Jack’s birthday, and we couldn’t agree more about the traits that he, Lucy and the Cabernet share.

Bon Appetit!

 

Gatherings with food

We held our sort-of annual Spring Field Day last week. I say “sort of” because we haven’t held it every year due to weather, soccer games, and various other commitments. Having more than 60 friends and customers here to the ranch reminded me how important these connections are and how much I enjoy them. No doubt, it’s a lot of work. I came home from my job off the ranch at 8:30 p.m. last Friday night. I had spent the day with a bunch of growers who farm speciality leafy greens and other commodity crops for the organic produce company I work for. It’s a great day where we recognize our growers and get to put faces with names, but it takes  alot of energy and I was exhausted by 8:30.  Upon my arrival home, I was met with my husband’s smiling face (always smiling!) and the cheery comment, “Ready to make 100 hamburgers?!” Ah, yes, the joy of the sort-of annual Field Day preparation.

Actually, it is joyful. We put on some Bruce Springteen, poured a glass of Syrah, sprinkled some dry spices over the ground beef, and got to forming hand-made patties. We were done in no time, and our customers appreciated it the next day. Our customers are amazing. They drove from as far away as Sacramento, most came from the San Francisco Bay Area. We started with a nature walk, led by Joe, on the ranch. He described our land management practices and left plenty of room for questions from our customers and their children. What’s so great about these days is that we get to educate urban people about rural issues. We talked about watershed, wildlife, native perennial bunch grasses and – in the words of one customer: “things I had never even thought about before!”

I think the BBQ lunch that wraps up the day is especially rewarding, not only because people are hungry by then, but because there is a certain bonding that takes place when people gather over food. It’s a connection that is shared across cultures, generations and geography. Our customers get to taste the grassfed beef they just witnessed being raised. It’s the kind of relationship so many people lack when it comes to their food. I am grateful we can provide these opportunities and I am even more grateful we have such wonderful and appreciative customers who take advantage of it. 

Humane Treatment

Reading reports this week of a beef recall after disturbing images of sick cattle were shown from a California slaughterhouse. When I see these incidents, I understand completely why people become vegetarians. I hope most people realize that those images are an aberration. All of the people we work with who handle animals would never dream of mistreating them. Most ranchers have a deep respect for animals. We live with them, we depend upon them for our livelihoods, and we spend our days taking care of them. We are in the fast grass growing season now and Joe and Everett are moving the cows daily in order to to ensure fresh grass for them.  Our cattle live on open spaces and never see a feedlot; they relax on pastoral hills and enjoy clean water, fresh air and green grass.

Ironically, we’ve been in discussions lately with the American Humane Association (AHA), the third-party humane treatment certification label we’ve had for the past four years. We follow strict guidelines of humane treatment, developed over five generations of ranching heritage. The value of a third-party label is mainly for those customers who we do not know, and who do not know us. It’s a nice way to verify our practices for those who do not have a chance to come and see our ranches and cattle for themselves. Most of our customers trust that we would never mistreat an animal and actually seek out our beef because of the healthy nature of the animals, land and product. We have decided to not renew our certification with AHA. Following is Joe’s response to one of our customers explaining our decision. As always, we welcome comments and feedback.

  Hi Kimberly,

Thank you for your inquiry and your concern about the recent recall.  I found it repulsive, frankly, and am dismayed that a few people in the dairy business have made such a black mark on the beef industry–as well as the dairy industry.  I just returned from a meeting of our local cattlemen’s association, and there is general agreement that the behavior in question was completely reprehensible and avoidable.
As far as our practices are concerned, our animals live pretty much as their wild ancestors lived, that is to say filling their niche in the life of the rangeland community–which includes you and me, by the way, who benefit and affect the rangelands around us.  In the interest of full disclosure, we are no longer certified humane.  We worked with the American certified humane group, of the “Free Farmed” label, for four years. 
Our practices were certified by them for that time.  This year they had changed one of their criteria, that male calves had to be castrated before they were one month old, and if they were castrated beyond that date anesthesia was required.  For a number of reasons, we have chosen not to comply with this norm.  The reasons include the fact that being with the animals every day during the calving season to make sure we castrated each calf within the requisite time frame is impractical from the standpoint of labor.  In addition the topography of our ranches would make it very difficult to catch and castrate each baby calf.  There are many things to attend to in order to enhance the life of the rangelands and the health of our animals, and the time required to babysit essentially wild animals would not help us toward that goal.  It would be a case of caring for the trees but losing the forest.  We choose to brand, vaccinate and castrate our calves when they are around four months of age, all at the same time: it takes about a minute per calf, after which they are immediately allowed back with their mothers and onto clean pasture.  They are up and eating within a couple of hours, sometimes faster.  While the procedure is clearly painful, we believe that it would add additional stress to hold onto the calves for the time it would take for the anesthesia to take effect. 
Cattle, by themselves, can deal with each other very roughly and deal each other blows that would cripple us, but they do not keep the stress up for almost any time at all.  It is hit and they’re done, with the exception of bulls fighting each other for dominance.  They way we brand attempts to mimic this form of stress and immediate release.  
The ”humane” standards were developed by people who do not understand animals very well, and seem to reflect an anthropomorphism of the animals, which we believe is not only unnecessary but very problematic.  I am an animal lover as well and have cared for animals since I was a child–lots of them, but I try to understand what it is the animal needs according to its nature not according to my own.  I have spoken with vets as well as with Dr. Temple Grandin, the animal behaviorist from Colorado State University, and they have all agreed that there are more important stresses to avoid for the well-being of our animals. 
Therefore, we will continue with our practice while always seeking to improve them. If there is a better way, a way to administer an analgesic, for example, to speed recovery, we are looking for it, and we will find it.
I apologize for the long response, but I want to be up front with all of our customers–or potential customers.  If we do not agree, the world is big enough to accommodate us both and better off with a diversity of ideas.
Hope that is helpful.  Please let me know, if you have further questions.
Joe Morris